Location: Pain De Suc, Les Saintes

Today marks the midpoint of our voyage as we said goodbye to beautiful Dominica and sailed to Les Saintes. Maybe someday I’ll go back to Dominica, open up a cassava bakery, eat star fruit, and chill with our awesome guides from the island. A simple life on a sunny island. What more could you ask for?

But for now, it’s time to enjoy Les Saintes. Our first sight of the island was a cluster of vague rocks on the horizon about half an hour north of Dominica. As we got closer, each little atoll became clearer: some were decent-sized islands with huts and palm trees; others, no more than towering rocks topped with clusters of trees. We anchored close to one of these pillars and tied the boat’s stern to it in preparation for today’s main event: night diving.

So far, most of us have only seen the underwater world during the day. I’m told it transforms into a completely different place once the sun sets, and the big fish come out to play. Bioluminescence, fluorescent coral, and all manner of exotic nocturnal fish wait just below the rippling surface. In preparation for the dive, we snorkeled the dive site this afternoon and found a submarine shelf littered with boulders and populated by fish large and small, bright and dull. The sheer variety was stunning. One can only imagine the otherworldly beauty of a reef after dark.

Though the water is cold and the idea of night diving might be intimidating, no one has ever opted out of a night dive on Ocean Star before. I’m confident we’ll continue that tradition tonight.